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Posts Tagged ‘forests’

Trees sculpted by Atlantic winds cling on to a rocky shore in Brittany.

Trees sculpted by Atlantic winds cling on to a rocky shore in Brittany.

Dense mangrove swamps living in semi-submerged seawater world are a frequent image of wonderfully adapted tropical forest ecosystems.  But in more temperate climes, our native woods and forests are less well adapted to life on ‘the edge’, the where the shoreline meets the soil, and the trees that live here cling to windswept rocky shores and the edges of sandy beaches.

The often harsh conditions of the seashore can be difficult conditions for normally land-loving trees to grow.  Strong, salty winds, and edaphic (soil characteristic) factors such as shallow sandy soils, pH, drainage, and nutrient deficiencies can make living life at the edge tough for trees.  In addition, where there are lush forest growths down to the shore, harvesting trees by cutting them and just letting them fall into the water for easy transport has resulted in over-exploitation and degradation of forest ecosystems.  On British Columbia’s shores, the ancient Douglas Fir ecosystems have been repeatedly exploited since the mid 1840s and are now in serious danger; not only are the remnants of an ancient woodland being cut down, but due to opportunistic invaders the nature of the area is changing too, leaving it vulnerable to fires, changing local weather patterns and species extinction (Coastal Douglas-fir Ecosystems, BC).

But where native trees manage to survive they create the best of both worlds – a wonderful walk through woodlands against a backdrop of waves rolling onto the shoreline below, and a strange juxtaposition of seabirds calling and woodland birds singing!  In the UK we have some lovely woodland walks along the seashore, some of my favourites being the small but perfectly formed East Wood, with fragments of an ancient woodland overlooking the dynamic tidal flow the of the Severn Estuary (what difference would a barrage make to this lovely wood?   But that’s for another blog….)

Admire the views surrounded by woodland - East Wood, Portishead.

Admire the views surrounded by woodland – East Wood, Portishead.

And then there’s the wonderful Rockcliffe Woods on the beautiful Stewartry Coast in Dumfries and Galloway, where the Solway sweeps in, covering the sands and causeway with alarming speed to the unwary.  On a clear day the plentiful benches along the path provide an opportunity to look across the Solway to the Isle of Man and the Cumbrian Hills (on a clear day!)

Snowy Rockcliffe, where the woodland paths overlook the Solway.

Snowy Rockcliffe, where the woodland paths overlook the Solway.

From Rockcliffe and Sandyhills you can also walk down the coast to the dramatic Needle’s Eye, a lovely archway in the granite rocks of the Southwick Coastal reserve, one of the last homes of an ancient Atlantic oakwood forest, and rich with wildlife and wonderful plants including orchids and violets.

Needle's Eye at Southwick, in the heart of ancient Atlantic Oak ecosystem and on the shores of the Solway.

Needle’s Eye at Southwick, in the heart of ancient Atlantic Oak ecosystem and on the shores of the Solway.

Up in the Highlands, where the winds are stronger and the winters long, trees struggle for survival in many places, not just on the sea’s edges.  One of the features of the Highland Clearances was the burning of houses and their wooden roof trusses – wood was so scarce a commodity that the cleared population would then have to leave their cottages to go and seek building materials elsewhere.  But where trees do grow in more sheltered areas they provide a wonderful addition to the dramatic scenery.

The Skye Bridge - The dramatic scenery of the Highlands is softened by trees which cling to survival in the harsh environment

The Skye Bridge – The dramatic scenery of the Highlands is softened by trees which cling to survival in the harsh environment

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The entrance to Rockcliffe woods from Kippford

The entrance to Rockcliffe woods from Kippford

This is a lovely walk combining two woodlands; the National Trust for Scotland (NTS) owned Rockcliffe woods, and the Forestry Commission Scotland (FCS) owned Mark Hill woods.  Situated along the shores of the Solway Firth these are very popular walks, as shown by the amount of footprints in the deep snow just a few days after the worst blizzards for a generation!  So it’s best to visit these woods out of peak season if possible.

You can park at the seaside villages of Rockcliffe village or Kippford –  there’s good parking with toilets at both; access to Rockcliffe wood at Kippford is at the other end of the village to the carpark.  The linear ‘Jubilee Path’ and a network of paths off it links the two villages through the woods, managed by NTS for wildlife and recreation.  In summer there is a wonderful range of wild  flowers to support the local butterfly population, there’s a veritable choral society of songbirds in the trees, and we could also hear the eiders and  oystercatchers on the Solway coast below – quite surreal when you are surrounded by trees!

the Mote of Mark

the Mote of Mark

It’s also worth a wee detour to climb up the Mote of Mark,  the site of an ancient settlement which, it has been suggested, could have been of considerable strategic importance as the centre of the ancient kingdom of Rheged.  There are fantastic views over the Solway from here too.

You can walk back to where you parked along this route –  it’s an easy couple of miles or so there-and-back route on well maintained earth paths and it’s great for all the family, although some parts take you through open farmland with grazing cattle so it’s best to keep dogs on leads here.

Or you can add on Mark Hill and the ‘Muckle Walk’ – more strenuous, and in actively managed Forestry Commission Scotland plantation; there are currently (Feb 2013) signs on the paths warning of construction work, and path diversion in the forest.  Follow the blue way markers (don’t be tempted by the many side tracks which look very tempting – they lead nowhere!) to the top of Mark Hill, where you suddenly emerge out of the conifers and onto a large granite hilltop, wind swept and exposed and with the most amazing views of the Solway, over to the English Lake District and even to the Isle of Man on really clear days.

Fabulous views of the Solway and the Galloway hills

Fabulous views of the Solway and the Galloway hills from Mark Hill, on the Muckle Walk

Return back through the forest and down the hill and reconnect with the Jubilee Path to either Rockcliffe or Kippford.

In all the two paths combined are about 5 miles.  Walking boots are advised, although the going is generally very good (it can be a bit boggy on the top of Mark Hill).  And the tops of the Mote of Mark and Mark Hill can be whipped by strong, cold winds too!

In the summer there are NTS Ranger-led walks on the Rockcliffe shore and in the woods.  The beach at Rockcliffe is also the setting for Dumfries and Galloway’s World Oceans Week Celebrations in June.

There’s more information about these woods on the VisitWoods website – see here for Rockcliffe and here for Mark Hill.

There’s also a good local guide with simple route maps by Dumfries and Galloway Council here.

And a bit more about these walks on the Walking Britain web site here.

Please note that Wood Elf Weekly is not responsible for the content of external web sites!

 

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Just in case we had forgotten how important our trees are to us.

Just in case we had forgotten how important our trees are to us.

These words are a lovely reminder of why our trees and forests are so important to us, and we destroy them at our peril.  With the increase in exotic diseases threatening our native woodlands here in the UK (and elsewhere) our trees need all the help we can give them, and these words are a great reminder of the intrinsic value of woods.  Although known as the ‘Prayer of the woods’ it is more a plea to respect and think about the innumerable and essential things that woods and trees provide us with.  And that’s before we even think about the social, physical and mental health benefits of our woods and forests, or even their role in combating climate change, regulating our weather, supporting biodiversity……….. the list goes on and on.

This prayer is apparently translated from Portuguese and is thought to be several hundred years old, although its origins are not fully known.

I found this on Plant Forest’s Facebook page; I’m sorry I don’t have a better acknowledgement of the photographer or the original author.

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P1000244Well, as it’s almost the end of the year the Wood Elves have been amusing themselves in the long dark nights as they sit by a roaring log fire with a small/medicinal sloe gin, by compiling ‘Top Ten’ lists – you know the sort of things, the completely materialistic Top 10 ‘Things I desperately wanted for Christmas and didn’t get’, or the more reflective ‘Top Ten Dismal Failures of 2012’.

To get things back on a more relevant footing, the Wood Elves decided to compile a ‘Top 10 list of woodland Top 10 lists’ after a peek through the blogosphere and internet – we found these great websites and we hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

No. 10  Sarah Maitland’s Top Ten Books of the Forest –there’s a great choice of reading in here, from classical Shakespeare to Grimm’s fairytales and taking in the wonderful I-Spy series, and also including a book of the work of our favourite artist, Andy Goldsworthy.  A great option for when you can’t get out to the woods!

No. 9 Travel: ten of the best autumn walks in Britain – a photo gallery by the Huffington post of gorgeous UK woodlands in their autumnal finery.

No. 8 Ten best woods and forests for myths and legend – a wonderful list of ‘must see’ woods for ghosts, mythical creatures and curative waters.  And not forgetting Robin Hood, of course!

No. 7 Gabriel Hemery’s Top Ten Largest Forests in the UK – this includes 3 Scottish forests, including the Galloway Forest park, the largest UK forest and right on our doorstep, and the magical Affric Forest in Inverness-shire (8th largest).

No. 6 Ten best leafy walks – although an autumn-themed list, these walks are wonderful all year round.  More information on many of them can be found on the VisitWoods web site.

No. 5 Ten best bluebell walks – look forward to spring; bluebells are the iconic woodland flower, and spring is really here when the woodland floors are carpeted in magical blue! This list includes the fabulous Carstramon Woods in Galloway, too.

No. 4 Top Ten British Trees – BBC’s Countryfile’s list of trees includes some intriguing woody facts and figures, including the most UK’s most expensive tree, tallest tree, and deadliest tree!

No. 3 Top ten trees for UK gardens – everyone should have a tree, but many of us only have the smallest gardens (if we are that lucky, even!).  But this BBC Gardener’s World list has some great ideas for beautiful trees in the smallest plots.  There’s something for every garden including trees with beautiful barks, flowers and foliage.

No 2 Top ten places to see ancient trees in the UK – unfortunately this doesn’t include any Scottish forests despite being a UK list.  Nonetheless there are some wonderful woods listed here, great places to go and walk in woods with a real sense of history, a real contrast to the more ubiquitous short-rotation forestry!

No.1 Ten best woods and forests for wheelchairs and buggies – this list is our number one choice because everyone should be able to enjoy our magical woods and forests.  This is a wonderful list of UK-wide woodlands, full of history and heritage and wild flowers and which really are accessible to everyone!

So there you go!  Hope you enjoy these lists, but please remember that Wood Elf Weekly isn’t responsible to links to external web sites.

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A French Comtois horse called Tarzan is working hard in the forests of Sutherland to help remove non-native larch from an SSSI at Ledmore and Migdale woods.  The site has the largest remnant of ancient oak wood in Sutherland, and is one of the most northerly pine woods in the UK.  It is also home to several Bronze age and 18th century archaeological sites. Woodland Trust Scotland and Scottish Natural Heritage are restoring ancient native pine woods in the area.

As well as limiting compaction of the forest soil and minimising damage to the surrounding trees, horse logging causes less damage to fragile rare woodland plants than modern forest machinery.  Additionally, scarification of the ground by the horse working in the woodlands is thought to be beneficial to the propagation of rare woodland plants.

Horse logging is a sustainable, eco-friendly logging method for extracting timber in woodlands and forests.  Using horses instead of machinery to do the work, it is a low-impact approach to many aspects of woodland management, such as coppice and thinnings extraction, right through to mature timber harvest.  It is a traditional method of sylviculture which is currently enjoying a revival as woodland managers in conservation bodies, local authorities and private estates increasingly appreciate its advantages.  Large but agile draft horses such as Comtois, from the French Jura mountains, or Pecherons are often used for horse logging.

There are several organisations in the UK promoting horse logging such as the British Horse Loggers  which was launched in the 1990s to promote what was then a dying art.  Demonstrations of horse logging can be seen throughout the UK at events such as the Borders Festival of the Horse.

This photo is from the BBC coverage of this story.

Horse logging by Tarzan – photo from BBC.

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The Ash, Fraxinus excelsior, or Uisinn in Gaelic, is a native deciduous tree of Britain and Ireland, and the fourth most common tree in British woods.  As well as being a source of fuel, food and building materials many trees are linked with mythology and tradition, and in British folklore the Ash is strongly associated with health and well being.  Many new born babies were given a teaspoon of fresh ash sap in years gone by, whilst weakly and sick children were also passed naked through a cleft in and ash tree in the belief that it would heal them (hopefully the poor children were rapidly covered up again!).  The Ash was also sacred to the Druids in Celtic mythology, its straight grain making it the wood of choice for Druid wands. The deep roots and the sky-reaching branches of the Ash are celebrated by some as the Scandinavian ‘Yggdrasil’, or the Tree of the World, connecting the three spirit worlds of the Underworld, Middle Earth and the Spiritual World.

Ash wood is strong and elastic and was frequently used for chariot and coach axles, tool handles, weapons, hockey sticks and wheel rims (amongst many other things).  It is also a dense wood and ideal as fuel.  When coppiced ash can regenerate almost indefinitely and one coppice in Suffolk is believed to be over 1000 years old.

Ash trees also play a pivotal role in the ecology of woodlands, their airy canopies allowing sunlight to penetrate to the forest floor, their seeds providing food for bullfinches and their branches providing nesting sites for nuthatches, redstarts and even dormice!  In Scotland, Ash trees are a cornerstone species in ‘Tilio-Acerion’ environmentally designated mixed woodlands, and fragments of these old woodlands can be found in the Borders, the Clyde Valley and Upper Nithsdale woods, all of which are ecologically important for their mosses, woodland plants and lichens.

For more information see:

Woodland Trust Tree Guide;

Trees for Life: Mythology and folklore of the Ash;

Forestry Commission – Ash;

JNCC Special Areas of Conservation,Tilio-Acerion forests;

Ash trees in Glen Lyon 

Ash Leaves – photo Woodlands.co.uk

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The intrepid VisitWoods (Dumfries and Galloway Branch) Web Guides have been busy these past few weeks, updating the VisitWoods website

Drumlanrig Castle

with photos and reviews of woods in the areas.  VisitWoods is an amazing source of information about woodlands throughout the UK – have a peak if you haven’t done so already!  There’s information about family-friendly woods, mountain biking, the best tea rooms, parking and all the other essentials that will make your trip to the woods a great one.

Latest Dumfries and Galloway updates are:

Carstrammon Woods – just outside Gatehouse of Fleet, great fungi right now

Castle O’er – near Lockerbie, it has a fascinating prehistoric trail and iron age fort

Drumlanrig Castle – on the A76 north of Dumfries, great family walks and cycles and challenging mountain bike trails.

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VisitWoods is a website run by the Woodland Trust  which aims to get as many people as possible visiting woodlands throughout the UK.  Their website has a database of over 10,000 woods throughout the UK and allows you to find woods near you based on postcode or area.  You can look for woods with specific facilities such as toilets, disabled access, public transport accessibility etc, and there’s a great webpage at the moment based around woodlands with the best tea rooms – yummy!!  The website is updated by volunteers and has a wealth of information and some great photos too, as well as photograph tips, wildlife guides and activities.  VisitWoods is at http://visitwoods.org.uk

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